Inhotim: dicas imperdíveis para visitar a “Disney” das artes

Férias em Belo Horizonte?

Parece estranho, mas a capital mineira pode se revelar um delicioso destino para uns dias de folga. Principalmente se no roteiro estiver incluído um final de semana para conhecer Inhotim.

Vista panorâmica da Obra de Hélio Oiticica Invenção da Cor Penetrável Magic Square #De Luxe, 1977


Tive a oportunidade de conhecer o instituto localizado em Brumadinho, a 60 km de BH, no ano passado, quando fui entrevistar o idealizador do maior centro de arte contemporânea a céu aberto do mundo, Bernardo Paz. Na ocasião, só consegui ver 5 das 17 instalações. Atualmente, já são 21. Prometi voltar com calma…

Obra Desert Park, de Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster 


O minerador bilionário tornou-se um mecenas brasileiro ao construir nos jardins da antiga fazenda do inglês Timothy – o Senhor Tim, que, na linguagem mineira acabou virando “Inhô Tim” – pavilhões para artistas brasileiros e estrangeiros exporem o que há de mais moderno e impactante em termos de arquitetura, pintura, escultura, música e instalações.


Visitar Inhotim é indescritível. Nada do que você ler ou ver vai se comparar à emoção de passear pelos belos jardins (com projeto do paisagista Roberto Burle Marx), lagos e galerias com arquitetura ímpar do lugar. Sem contar o mobiliário: cem bancos de tronco de árvore do designer Hugo França (que entre seus clientes, tem gente como o ator norte-americano Will Smith) espalhados pelos jardins.

O designer Hugo França forneceu mais de cem bancos de troncos de madeira para Inhotim 


Como este é um blog que dá boas dicas turísticas, aí vão elas:


DICAS PARA FAZER A MELHOR VISITA A INHOTIM


– Fique hospedado em Casa Branca, cidadezinha a 30 quilômetros de Brumadinho. A vilinha é muito mais charmosa, tem o “Pior Buteco do Mundo” (é este mesmo o nome do bar, que só funciona de dia), pub inglês ( com dono inglês de verdade) e feirinha orgânica no final de semana.

Pousada Vista da Serra 


– Uma opção bacana em Casa Branca é a Pousada Vista da Serra. A paisagem da Serra da Rola Moça é deslumbrante e o ambiente é bastante romântico ( com pétalas de rosas nas camas) e aconchegante. 


Destaque para a recepção com caldos e sopas na sexta à noite; café da manhã farto, com ovo caipira, canjica feita no fogão a lenha (que fica aceso o tempo todo esquentando os pães de queijo) e coalhada fresca (sem contar o Bolo Impossível – dou a receita no próximo post-, simples e delicioso). 


No sábado, o jantar está incluído na diária. A pousada tem quatro tipos de acomodação, todas bastante confortáveis: prata, ouro, especial e master – a última, a mais luxuosa,  com cama king size, hidro e varanda com vista pra serra. 


– Alugue um carro em BH. Dá para rodar até Casa Branca, ir para Inhotim e até procurar algumas cachoeiras na região. Dica dos locais é a Cachoeira da Ostra. Mas atenção: tem um trecho longo (de cerca de um hora) para ser feito a pé. O ideal é ir com guia local. 

– Cuidado, mas muito cuidado mesmo, na Serra da Rola Moça. Já vi serra com precipício de um lado, mas ali tem trecho com abismo dos DOIS lados. A paisagem é incrível: à noite, dá pra ver BH iluminada como se estivesse olhando da janela de um avião, de tão alto…Juro!

Serra da Rola Moça, na região metropolitana de Belo Horizonte  


– Reserve dois dias para Inhotim. Dá para visitar tudo em um dia? Dá. Mas é MUITO corrido. O ideal é fazer a parte central em um dia, a pé, e visitar as instalações mais afastadas no segundo dia, usando os carrinhos de transporte que o instituto oferece – o serviço é cobrado (custa R$ 20/dia).


–  De tanto andar, Inhotim dá fome. E tem boas opções de restaurante. O mais chique (e carinho) é o bufê do Tamboril, em frente à árvore de mesmo nome. Preste atenção no banco sob a árvore: o tronco tem 500 anos! E na escultura-totem do chinês Zhang Huan próxima ao restaurante – a cabeça da tartaruga tem a face do artista.          


– No segundo dia, opte pelo restaurante Oiticica, por quilo e mais em conta, em frente ao lago. A comida é muito boa e a vista espetacular!  

“Desvio para o Vermelho”, de Cildo Meireles


– Pavilhões e obras imperdíves: galerias Tunga, Cildo Meireles e Adriana Varejão; obra de Chris Burden (instalação Beam
Drop Inhotim); e Pavilhão Sonic Pavillion, de Doug Aitken (tem microfones a 200 metros de profundidade que captam os sons da Terra). Veja também a “Piscina”, de Jorge Macchi e a Galeria True Rouge. Tudo vale ser visto, ouvido e sentido…


Pavilhão Sonic Pavillion: o som das profundezas da Terra

– Viu tudo? Agende uma próxima visita para conferir de perto a galeria que será construída para o artistas indiano-britânico Anish Kapoor. Ele ficou tão encantado com o lugar que resolveu doar uma obra (Shooting into the Corner) para Inhotim. A galeria deve ser inaugurada até 2014.   

Curta a página do Atitude 40 no Facebook: www.facebook.com/Atitude40

Fotos: Andrea Martins
André Mantelli/Divulgação
Eugenio Sávio/Divulgação
Pedro Motta/ Divulgação
Marcelo Coelho/Divulgação
Reprodução e Divulgação

Agradecimento: Pousada Vista da Serra


       

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