Belém do Pará: 10 dicas para quem está apenas de passagem

Indo a Belém trabalhar ou de passagem? Vale seguir as dicas rápidas para o turista que vai ficar poucos dias na capital paraense


Tenho feito pequenas viagens a trabalho por diversas regiões do Brasil. A última foi para a região Norte, para as cidades de Belém e Manaus. 

Foi minha estreia na capital paraense. E mesmo com uma passagem rápida, deu para descobrir algumas preciosidades e dar algumas dicas aqui no blog.

Por do sol do Rio Guajará


1- Ervas do Mercado Ver-o-Peso – a feira paraense já é bem conhecida no Brasil. Ali dá pra comprar de tudo, de frutas a farinha de tapioca. Mas, como tive pouco tempo, foquei minha visita na parte das ervas. As barracas vendem remédio para absolutamente tudo, até doenças da “alma”, do tipo arranjar namorado ou largar dele. Pedi uns chás e como adoro bater papo, acabei ganhando de Dona Coló, uma das mais tradicionais vendedoras de ervas, uma pomada para dores musculares e um tal de “Cheirinho do Pará” – uma espécie de perfume feito de plantas, bastante conhecido na região. 

Garrafadas de ervas do mercado Ver-o-Peso
D. Coló, vendedora de ervas do mercado 

2- Açaí – o suco da fruta faz parte da refeição dos paraenses, acompanhado de farinha de tapioca (granola é para os fracos!). Mas enquanto os paulistas tomam a polpa congelada batida com frutas como energético até para ir à academia, no Pará descobri que açaí deve ser tomado para dormir!!! Isso mesmo, dormir. Tomar uma tigela de açaí puro e natural é como tomar um comprimido para insônia, dá muito sono. Por isso, algumas pessoas deixam para tomar só no jantar, para poder descansar depois. Eu fiz a burrada de tomar no almoço e passei parte da tarde bocejando….

3- Restaurante Lá em Casa – o tradicional restaurante paraense do chef Paulo Martins ( que faleceu em 2010) é passagem obrigatória em Belém. O restaurante fica nas Docas (ver dica abaixo) e serve pratos típicos com um toque de alta gastronomia. Sem muito tempo para experimentar os diversos peixes amazônicos, escolhi o Corridinho de Peixe. O prato traz 6 pequenas degustações de outros pratos da casa e dá para experimentar tambaqui, filhote (veja dica), pirarucu, pescada amarela, farofa de pirarucu seco, arroz com jambu, tucupi (que anestesia a boca) entre outras iguarias. Paulo Martins influenciou e apresentou os ingredientes da Amazônia para Alex Atala e o catalão Ferran Adriá, do El Bulli.

Degustação de peixes no restaurante Lá em Casa


4- Filhote – o peixe mais gostoso que comi no Pará. Com tucupi, grelhado, frito…Delicioso, com sua carne branca e suave.

5- Casa das Onze Janelas à noite – um dos mais conhecidos pontos turísticos de Belém, o prédio histórico (que abriga um museu) vira um bar/restaurante charmoso à noite, com música, um deck voltado para o Rio Guajará e happy hour de chopp com preço fixo (R$ 20,00). Ideal para bater papo e afugentar o calor com um choppinho gelado! 

6- Cairu – sorveteria mais conhecida da cidade, com mais de 40 sabores de frutas exóticas da amazônia e 50 anos de experiência. Experimentei os sabores Carimbó (castanha do Pará com cupuaçu), bacuri, araçá e açaí com tapioca. Todos ótimos! A marca abriu 15 lojas e quiosques na cidade. 

Sorvetes Cairu: frutas exóticas da Amazônia


7- Docas – a área portuária foi restaurada há mais de uma década e abriga bares, restaurantes, lojas e exposições de arte, com a linda vista do Rio Guajará. Por do sol é imperdível. Detalhe que toda estrutura é feita em ferro, como o Mercado de Carne.

Docas de Belém: espaço de gastronomia e cultura


8- Mercado de Carne – o espaço comercial tem um belo conjunto arquitetônico de ferro, importado da Escócia no início do século 20. Fica na frente do Ver-o-Peso. Vale pra tirar uma foto e observar a beleza da estrutura do auge da Era do ferro belenense.

9 – Sinagoga mais antiga do Brasil  – A região Norte abriga a maior parte dos descendentes de judeus do Brasil – estima-se que sejam mais de 300 mil na Amazônia legal. E Belém é um museu a céu aberto da história deste povo na região. Está na capital paraense a sinagoga mais antiga do Brasil em funcionamento, além do primeiro cemitério israelita do País, de 1848.

10 – Teatro da Paz – o prédio construído no auge do ciclo da borracha, foi inspirado no Scalla de Milão. As visitas são gratuitas. Bem ali no centro, na praça da República.  

Belém é uma delícia e já deu vontade de voltar para poder conhecer com mais tempo as belezas da capital paraense. E quem sabe as praias. Me contaram que uma tal de Mosqueiro é praia de rio com onda. Até surfam. Ver pra crer…

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Fotos: Andrea Martins



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