Nhoque à Sorrentina, torta caprese e muita escada pra manter a linha…

Assim como os nossos virado à paulista, moqueca capixaba ou tutu à mineira, os italianos também adoram batizar seus pratos referindo-se aos locais de origem. Em Sorrento, porta de entrada da belíssima Costa Amalfitana, um dos pratos preferidos é o nhoque à sorrentina.

A cidade, injustamente pouco indicada pelos guias de viagem, é uma grata surpresa  aos viajantes,com preços melhores do que a caríssima  Positano e paisagens lindas do golfo de Nápoles.

O centro histórico, com seus bequinhos medievais,  é cheio de lojinhas, restaurantes e limões por todos os lados. Sorrento é a capital italiana do Limoncello, licor de limão amarelo de alto teor alcóolico que fica delicioso quando misturado a uma granita (a nossa raspadinha de frutas). A adoração à fruta é tanta que fizeram atè um jardim público de limoeiros no centro da cidade…

Lojas de produtos à base de limão

Uma dica de hospedagem é o hotel Il Faro, na Marina Piccola, de frente para o Porto de Sorrento, de onde saem os barcos para Capri. O lugar é estratégico e por 10 euros a mais dá para pegar um quarto com varanda, com uma vista linda do mar e dos iates. Para chegar ao centro, uma escada de quase 200 degraus – a primeira de uma série de escadas gigantes da viagem – ajuda a queimar as calorias do inhoque à sorrentina.

O prato típico nada mais é do que nhoque de batata com tomate e mussarela, mas é tão gostoso e levinho que parece comida de mãe. De entrada, algo do mar, como salada de polvo no azeite ou brusquetas de aliche. Se for encarar ainda o secondo piatto (o primo piatto para os italianos é sempre uma massa ou risoto), a opção é peixe-espada com molho de limão.

Salada de polvo de Sorrento

De sobremesa, a dica é um dos diversos sabores da sorveteria Primavera, freqüentada até pelo Papa e cujo dono é estrela de diversas reportagens do mundo inteiro pregadas nas paredes. No ano passado, ele chamou uma atrizes italianas famosas e fez uma fonte de calda de chocolate na porta da loja para elas se banharem de biquini. Marketing de primeira!

Um dos quatro casamentos da manhã de terça-feira

Ah, Sorrento também é point para casamentos. Numa terça-feira de manhã, vi pelo menos 4 noivas na cidade, mais romântico impossível…

Torta e Salada Caprese

Mar de Capri

De Sorrento partem os barcos para Capri, lugar com o mar mais azul do mundo. Sem exagero! A água é tão azul, mas tão azul, que dá pra ver nas pedras das grutas uma espécie de “tinta” colorida que “pinta” as margens ds rochas. Increditável, mas é vero!

O “azul” da água pinta as paredes de pedra

Lá fica a tal Grotta Azzurra, passeio imperdível pra conhecer onde o cruel imperador Tibério, que não era bobo nem nada, gostava de se banhar. Tem que ver in loco pra entender a beleza do lugar, que tem uma entradinha de um 1,30 de altura e por onde você tem que entrar deitado numa canoa, com uns barqueiros meio broncos, mas buona gente! O sol bate no fundo da gruta e transforma o lugar em um mar de neon…

Entrada da Grotta Azzurra com 1,3 metro de altura

De resto, a ilha é luxo puro, com a vilinha de Capri recheada de lojas de grifes e restaurantes divinos. Lá, experimente a tal torta caprese, com massa molhadinha de chocolate, amêndoa e cobertura de açúcar de confeiteiro fininho, fininho…Os restaurantes de São Paulo deviam oferecer nos cardápios, em vez do batido Tiramissú!

Outra especialidade é a salada Caprese (mas esta comi em Amalfi), com tomate doce (por isso é fruta), a melhor mussarela de búfala e tanto manjericão que parece rúcula. Ainda bem que segui pra Positano, a cidade que tem ruas em forma de escadas…Haja step pra manter a linha…

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