Primo Piatto: a pizza napolitana mais famosa do mundo!

Abandonei o blog, nas últimas semanas, por um motivo bastante justo: minhas férias! Organizar roteiro, hotéis, passagens, malas, roupas e guias exigiu de mim uma área do cérebro tamanha que sobrou pouco espaço para outros pensamentos. Escrever, então,  virou tarefa ainda mais árdua com a cabeça cheia de cidades desconhecidas…

O roteiro escolhido? Itália. Mas não a tradicional , de Roma e Veneza. Optei por duas regiões opostas e diferentes: a Itália do Sul, de Nápoles e da Costa Amalfitana; e a do Norte, da região da Toscana.

Escrevo do trem que me leva à Florença, depois de um dia inteiro cruzando o país de Sul a Norte -a pé,  de ônibus, trem, com direito a paradinha em Nápoles para resgatar uma mala pesada que deixei no primeiro hotel da viagem.

A semana inteira foi de descobertas variadas – do dialeto italiano falado em Nápoles, incompreensível até para os próprios conterrâneos, às iguarias criadas nas cidades visitadas e que levam o nome dos lugares  para o mundo.

Primeira parada gastronômica: a pizza napolitana. De cara, a cidade assusta. Descer na Estacione Centrale, vindo de Roma, joga na cara do turista que o lugar é para os “bravos”. O lixo está espalhado por todo lado, os tipos mal encarados abundam e sempre lembramos que aquela é a terra da máfia.

Becos de Nápoles

O idioma é cheio de ” sche sche” e se você entende um pouquinho de italiano, vai achar que o trem parou em outro país. Mas o povo napolitano é simpático por natureza, apesar de parecer mal-humorado, e não  pensa duas vezes para te ajudar da melhor maneira possível. Se precisar, eles andam uma quadra com você até a entrada da estação de metrô para ter certeza que você entendeu a informação. Aconteceu comigo…

Aos poucos, a cidade começa a mostrar seus encantos: o centro histórico, com suas roupas nas janelas, tem seu charme. As igrejas são bonitas e San Genaro é o santo local. Qualquer bodega tem uma ótima pizza a 1 euro para enganar a fome de tanto andar.

Pizza em toda esquina

Sorvete napolitano, aos baldes. Os sabores são uma incógnita sem um dicionário. Mas nenhum que provei decepcionou. Nocciola (acho que é nutela), baba (um doce típico da região), lemone (um clássico na terra do licor limoncello), pera com ricota, todos deliciosos.  Só não consegui comer a sfogliatella por pura falta de espaço na barriga…

Doce típico napolitano

Piazza  Plebiscito, Teatro San Carlo, Galeria Umberto Primo, Castelo Nuovo, Quartieri Spaglioli: os pontos turísticos se sucedem, mas a fome te acompanha na longa caminhada. À beira mar, muitos pratos napolitanos levam peixe ou frutos do mar. O espaguete com marisco vem com as conchas, banhado em azeite e ervas. Impossível não passar o pão no prato. Pra acompanhar, um vinho branco ou prosecco da região, bons e baratos.

A pizza mais famosa de Nápoles é a da pizzeria  Anticua de Michele. Tradicional, só vem em dois sabores: marguerita (mussarela, tomate e manjericão) e marinara (tomate, alho, orégano) . Ficou ainda mais famosa quando Julia Roberts comeu uma inteira no fraquinho filme Comer, Rezar e Amar.

Fila pra comer a pizza mais famosa de Nápoles

A fila na porta é para quem quer mesa. Para comprar e levar, são só dez minutinhos. “Cinque” bem gastos euros.  Para comer com a mão, como os napolitanos, na rua, sujando a boca e a roupa e falando “Mama Mia” para quem passa. A resposta é sempre um sorrisinho de “eu sei, eu sei…”

Nos próximos posts:  nhoque à sorrentina (direto de Sorrento) e a torta e a salada caprese (direto de Capri).  E ainda: o restaurante com a melhor vista do mundo (em Positano).

Baccio!

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  233. Apple now has Rhapsody as an app, which is a great start, but it is currently hampered by the inability to store locally on your iPod, and has a dismal 64kbps bit rate. If this changes, then it will somewhat negate this advantage for the Zune, but the 10 songs per month will still be a big plus in Zune Pass’ favor.

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  243. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a web browser. Not a game machine. Maybe in the future it’ll do even better in those areas, but for now it’s a fantastic way to organize and listen to your music and videos, and is without peer in that regard. The iPod’s strengths are its web browsing and apps. If those sound more compelling, perhaps it is your best choice.

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  246. I’ll gear this review to 2 types of people: current Zune owners who are considering an upgrade, and people trying to decide between a Zune and an iPod. (There are other players worth considering out there, like the Sony Walkman X, but I hope this gives you enough info to make an informed decision of the Zune vs players other than the iPod line as well.)

  247. Hands down, Apple’s app store wins by a mile. It’s a huge selection of all sorts of apps vs a rather sad selection of a handful for Zune. Microsoft has plans, especially in the realm of games, but I’m not sure I’d want to bet on the future if this aspect is important to you. The iPod is a much better choice in that case.

  248. If you’re still on the fence: grab your favorite earphones, head down to a Best Buy and ask to plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which one sounds better to you, and which interface makes you smile more. Then you’ll know which is right for you.

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