Primo Piatto: a pizza napolitana mais famosa do mundo!

Abandonei o blog, nas últimas semanas, por um motivo bastante justo: minhas férias! Organizar roteiro, hotéis, passagens, malas, roupas e guias exigiu de mim uma área do cérebro tamanha que sobrou pouco espaço para outros pensamentos. Escrever, então,  virou tarefa ainda mais árdua com a cabeça cheia de cidades desconhecidas…

O roteiro escolhido? Itália. Mas não a tradicional , de Roma e Veneza. Optei por duas regiões opostas e diferentes: a Itália do Sul, de Nápoles e da Costa Amalfitana; e a do Norte, da região da Toscana.

Escrevo do trem que me leva à Florença, depois de um dia inteiro cruzando o país de Sul a Norte -a pé,  de ônibus, trem, com direito a paradinha em Nápoles para resgatar uma mala pesada que deixei no primeiro hotel da viagem.

A semana inteira foi de descobertas variadas – do dialeto italiano falado em Nápoles, incompreensível até para os próprios conterrâneos, às iguarias criadas nas cidades visitadas e que levam o nome dos lugares  para o mundo.

Primeira parada gastronômica: a pizza napolitana. De cara, a cidade assusta. Descer na Estacione Centrale, vindo de Roma, joga na cara do turista que o lugar é para os “bravos”. O lixo está espalhado por todo lado, os tipos mal encarados abundam e sempre lembramos que aquela é a terra da máfia.

Becos de Nápoles

O idioma é cheio de ” sche sche” e se você entende um pouquinho de italiano, vai achar que o trem parou em outro país. Mas o povo napolitano é simpático por natureza, apesar de parecer mal-humorado, e não  pensa duas vezes para te ajudar da melhor maneira possível. Se precisar, eles andam uma quadra com você até a entrada da estação de metrô para ter certeza que você entendeu a informação. Aconteceu comigo…

Aos poucos, a cidade começa a mostrar seus encantos: o centro histórico, com suas roupas nas janelas, tem seu charme. As igrejas são bonitas e San Genaro é o santo local. Qualquer bodega tem uma ótima pizza a 1 euro para enganar a fome de tanto andar.

Pizza em toda esquina

Sorvete napolitano, aos baldes. Os sabores são uma incógnita sem um dicionário. Mas nenhum que provei decepcionou. Nocciola (acho que é nutela), baba (um doce típico da região), lemone (um clássico na terra do licor limoncello), pera com ricota, todos deliciosos.  Só não consegui comer a sfogliatella por pura falta de espaço na barriga…

Doce típico napolitano

Piazza  Plebiscito, Teatro San Carlo, Galeria Umberto Primo, Castelo Nuovo, Quartieri Spaglioli: os pontos turísticos se sucedem, mas a fome te acompanha na longa caminhada. À beira mar, muitos pratos napolitanos levam peixe ou frutos do mar. O espaguete com marisco vem com as conchas, banhado em azeite e ervas. Impossível não passar o pão no prato. Pra acompanhar, um vinho branco ou prosecco da região, bons e baratos.

A pizza mais famosa de Nápoles é a da pizzeria  Anticua de Michele. Tradicional, só vem em dois sabores: marguerita (mussarela, tomate e manjericão) e marinara (tomate, alho, orégano) . Ficou ainda mais famosa quando Julia Roberts comeu uma inteira no fraquinho filme Comer, Rezar e Amar.

Fila pra comer a pizza mais famosa de Nápoles

A fila na porta é para quem quer mesa. Para comprar e levar, são só dez minutinhos. “Cinque” bem gastos euros.  Para comer com a mão, como os napolitanos, na rua, sujando a boca e a roupa e falando “Mama Mia” para quem passa. A resposta é sempre um sorrisinho de “eu sei, eu sei…”

Nos próximos posts:  nhoque à sorrentina (direto de Sorrento) e a torta e a salada caprese (direto de Capri).  E ainda: o restaurante com a melhor vista do mundo (em Positano).

Baccio!

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